Norsk Fjord Fiber

INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE HAGEN TAPESTRY LOOM

Warping the Loom : Attaching the Shedding Assembly : Changing the Sett

Introduction

HAGAN LOOM ILLUSTRATION

This portable loom is probably the simplest and yet most versatile loom available, but it has several innovative features that will be "new" to even the most accomplished tapestry weaver. Please read through these instructions to acquaint yourself with the various pieces of equipment and accessories that are included with your loom and with the setup procedures. We have used boldface type to indicate issues of special importance. If you are new to tapestry or are not familiar with some of the weaving terms used here, we recommend that you refer to tapestry books or videos such as Nancy Harvey's.

The rectangular weaving frame is the "main attraction". Most frames are shipped with top and bottom coils on the same side. To prepare for use, pull apart the top and bottom pieces of the frame, rotate the top 180 degrees, and reassemble. When your frame is properly assembled, you will have one "spring" attached on the top front and another on the bottom back. These are warp coils, used (in place of a reed) to determine the sett. The wing nuts on both sides of the frame are used to establish the length of the woven piece, and to continuously adjust the warp tension.

In addition to the table stand which is provided with all looms, an adjustable floor stand is also available. This floor stand has a number of useful features: it can be adjusted to fit any size frame; it can hold the frame in any orientation; it facilitates the warping process for larger frames; and it has attachment space for a work light.

The other packet contains parts for the shedding device. A description of the installation and use of this shedding device is included below.

Warping the Loom
The height of the weaving frame can be adjusted to accommodate the length of the tapestry that you plan to weave. To determine the height setting for the frame, add eight inches to the length of tapestry you are planning to make and divide by two. This will give you the length to extend the weaving frame for your project. See below for maximum warp lengths and widths for the four frames.

1. Use the wing nuts to extend the frame to the desired length. (If needed, you can purchase extensions to add up to 25 inches to the tapestry length. See the price list.) Never dress the loom with the frame extended all the way out or down, as this will limit your ability to adjust the warp tension while weaving.

2. Remove the thin metal rod from the top front warp coil. (This rod will be reinserted after warping.) The warp coils included with your loom will accommodate a sett od 10 epi's or 5 epi's (use every other slot in coil for 5 epi). You can order warp coils for other setts as needed. See price list.

3. Here are two ways to attach your warp.
The Norwegian Approach: tie one end of the warp yarn around the bottom of the frame. (Allow at least one inch clearance on each side of the frame for the operation of the wing nuts.) Bring the warp yarn up the frame, through the warp coil and over the top. Continue around the back of around the back of the frame and down through the warp coil at the bottom of the frame. You should count coil slots in order to align your top and bottom coil warp. Continue until you have the desired width. Then tie the end of the warp to the top of the frame. When you are ready to advance the weaving, untie the warp threads and work them into the woven piece, giving you a continuous and movable warp.
An Alternative Approach: hold the warp at the selected coil slot at the bottom of the frame, bring the warp up the back of the frame, over the top, through the coil on the back of the frame and down to the starting point. Tie a knot. Repeat this process, to create a firm, even double warp edge. Wrap your warp at the desired sett. Finish your warp in the same way that you began, giving a double warp edge. If you tie the warp to itself at the bottom of the frame, then the knots will not interfere with your weaving as these will be covered by the heading.

4. Insert the thin metal rod into the upper warp coil. This is important. This ensures that the warp will not pop out when you advance the weaving.

5. Tighten the warp by turning the wing nuts. If necessary adjust the warp tension by starting at one end and pulling until even tensioning is achieved. Warping in one sitting produces a more even tension.

6. The loom can be equipped with a shedding device using string heddles, as described below. However, if you prefer, you can use a pick-up stick or pick individually with your fingers.

7. You can weave with the frame attached to either the table stand or the optional floor stand. To secure the table stand at the desired orientation, attach a length of durable yarn to the lower "knob" on one side of the frame, wrap the yarn around the rubber stopper on the bottom of the stand, and attach the yarn to the lower knob on the other side of the frame.

8. When ready to advance the tapestry, open a shed, secure the flat stick against the weft and close the shed. This will keep the weft in place. If you selected the Norwegian warping method, untie the secured warp yarn from the bottom and top of the loom. If you warp is already continuous, then you can unscrew the wing nuts to loosen the tension. Pull the tapestry down to a suitable height for working. You should either remove the bottom warp coil on the back or place a strip of cardstock over that coil so the woven part will not be stretched over the coil. It is best to advance the tapestry so as to not weave too near the shedding device. Tighten the warp and for the Norwegian method, work the two loose ends of the warp into the tapestry with a needle.

9. When the tapestry is ready to be advanced over the top of the frame, remove the thin rod from the top warp coil. You can weave all but about 8 inches of the warp.

Attaching the Shedding Assembly
The shedding assembly is constructed of a wooden dowel, two metal clips, a metal rod, and a metal turning device. A wooden block and a flat wooden shedding stick are also included. The shedding assembly creates a two harness configuration.

1. To install the shedding assembly, set the weaving frame horizontal with the top end closest to you. Attach a clip to each side of the weaving frame with the "C" on the outside and perpendicular to the frame, as shown in Figure 1. Slide the wooden dowel through the rings on the clips with the metal staples on top. Place the wooden spacing block between the warp and the dowel. Slide the metal rod through the first staple on top of the dowel. It is important to use the block to ensure proper heddle lengths. Center the rod to ensure even heddles for both sheds.

2. Now you are ready to make your string heddles. You will need two lengths of strong cotton or waxed linen yarn for the string heddles, one for each shed (allow about 5 inches for each string heddle). For installation, you may find it helpful to use two different colors of heddle yarn. Figure 1 illustrates the basic set-up. First tie your two heddle threads to the rod. Each will be used to form string heddles on one side of the dowel. As indicated in Figure 1, the heddles on side a are threaded under warp threads 1, 3, 5, ... The heddles on side b go under warp threads 2,4,6,... You can use a tapestry needle in this threading.

3. Pull up your heddles on alternate sides in order (1,2,3,4,5,...), using the spacing block to maintain proper heddle length. The heddle threads are looped once around the rod between each heddle with a twist to lock the heddle in place. It is important to have the yarn secure, but not too tight, so that the rod can be pushed through while the heddle loops remain in place. See Figure 1.

4. Check heddles for uniformity and adjust before advancing the block and rod.

5. When your heddles are completed, attach the ends of the heddle threads to the rod with a knot. Extend the rod under all the metal staples on the dowel, and secure the rod to the dowel in several places (c in Figure 2). For extra security, you can attach the shedding assembly to the clips with yarn.

6. Slide the C clips up or down to adjust the shedding assembly to a suitable weaving location. Insert the shedding “turner” in the hole at one end of the dowel (right end for right handers and left end for left handers, or as you prefer). Turn alternately up and down to create your shed. To hold the shed open, just hook the turner handle on the outside of the frame (see Figure 2). When the shedding assembly is properly installed, there should be absolutely no resistance in the movement of the shedding rod. If there is any resistance, do not try to force the shedding rod. Instead check to see that your clips are properly aligned (with the C on the outside and perpendicular to the frame) and that the rod is centered between the clips.

Changing the sett
When changing the warp coils to create a different sett, insert a length of wire or strong yarn into the cotter pin at one end of each coil and pull slowly to release the coil. Repeat the process to attach the new coils.

Historical Note
Hans Hagen, one of Norway’s most respected metalsmiths, created the Hagen Tapestry Loom in 1968. He began with a simple frame with a width of 50 cm but gradually expanded the selection of sizes and setts to meet the demands of Norwegian weavers. The portability and versatility of this loom made it very popular among Norwegians, who do tapestry like Americans do needlepoint!

Since Hans Hagen died in February 1993, his son, Erling Hagen, has taken over the production of the loom and the accessories. This marks the second generation of Hagen craftsmanship with this superior quality tapestry loom.